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almost there

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Mach 3 | Craig Anderson - Haydenshape surfboard
California Cool: vintage surfboards
These are Peter Mel and Ian Walsh’s boards during a really big set that cleaned a lot of guys up. These guys were bailing to try to punch through the lip on this one. Fortunately, they both made it through okay, but to put things in perspective, the one on the left is a 9- or 10-foot board. You can just use that as a yardstick to measure that wave.
Alana Blanchard duck dive, slipping through the sea.

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